Fort Bowie wasn’t originally in our plans, but after driving by it on the way to Chiricahua National Monument, we were intrigued enough to look into it. The access alone to this National Historic Site is fascinating. You drive 8 miles down a dirt road to get to the trailhead (the drive is quite pretty), but then you have to hike 1.5 miles just to get to the Visitors Center! OF all the parks I’ve ever been to, this is the only one where the only access to the Visitors Center is to hike in.
The hike into the park is covered in signs that take you on a walk through the not-so-proud history of the fort. It’s not the proudest moment of the US Government and the treatment of indigenous peoples. The National Park Service refers to it as a “clash of cultures”. It’s a rather long story that centers around wrongful accusations, but the result was nearly 25 years of conflict and violence between government soldiers and the Chiricahua Apache. This particular area was of great importance because within the dry desert area, there was a natural spring and both sides were willing to fight for it.
Although we’ve taken the kids to forts before, this one was really different. The kids are young, but the hike in forced their attention on the story that was being told on the signs. There was a cemetery along the route that specifically drew their attention…especially when they realized that there was a 5 month old baby buried there. That sparked a very interesting discussion about war and the sacrifices and carnage it can leave behind – deep stuff for a 6 and 7 year old.
I’m really glad we chose to come here. The ruins aren’t a lot to look at, but the hike in changes everything. You get a feel for the history and the struggle on both sides. You also get a sense of just how out-of-the way this place was and what it must have taken to build and maintain it. You also get a feel for the beauty of the mountains and the rolling hills, and how much Cochise and his tribe must have loved it and been willing to fight for it. What an experience!
